Tutorial

How to Clean an Acoustic Guitar Without Damaging the Finish

Acoustic guitar tutorial visual

Why Cleaning Matters More Than It Looks

Sweat, skin oils and dust build up on a guitar faster than most players notice. On the strings they speed up corrosion and kill the tone. On the fingerboard they form a dark grime along the frets. On the body, especially where your forearm rests, they dull the finish.

The good news is that most of the benefit comes from the simplest habit: wiping the guitar after you play. The deeper cleaning jobs are occasional, and they are easy as long as you use the right, gentle materials.

The Thirty-Second Habit After Every Session

Keep a soft, lint-free microfibre cloth in your case or gig bag. After playing, wipe each string along its length, top and underside. Pinching the cloth around each string gets the underside, where sweat collects.

Then wipe the neck and the areas of the body you touched. That is all. Players who do this consistently find their strings last noticeably longer, which we covered in how often to change strings.

Wash your hands before playing. It sounds obvious and it makes a real difference to how quickly strings and the fingerboard get dirty.

Cleaning the Fingerboard

The best time to clean the fingerboard is when you change strings and the board is bare. For light grime, a dry or very slightly damp cloth is enough. For stubborn build-up along the frets, very fine steel wool is used by many repair people, but it sheds metal fibres that can stick to pickups and should be kept away from the soundhole. A soft toothbrush or a plastic scraper is a gentler option on acoustic guitars.

Unfinished fingerboards, which most rosewood and ebony boards are, can dry out over time, especially in low humidity. Many players apply a small amount of fingerboard conditioner or oil made for guitars once or twice a year. Use very little, let it sit briefly, and wipe off the excess thoroughly. More is not better, and excess oil can soften glue or collect dirt.

Maple fingerboards are different. They usually have a finish on them, like the body, so they should be cleaned like a finished surface and not oiled.

Cleaning the Body: Gloss Versus Satin

Check which finish your guitar has before using any product. A gloss finish is shiny and reflective. A satin or matte finish looks softer, with little shine.

Gloss finishes can take a guitar polish made for the purpose. Spray it on the cloth, not directly on the guitar, and buff gently. Satin finishes should generally not be polished with gloss polish, because rubbing and polishing compounds can create shiny patches that do not match the rest. A dry or slightly damp microfibre cloth is usually all a satin finish needs.

Some vintage and specialty guitars use nitrocellulose lacquer, which can react badly to certain chemicals and even to some rubber stands. If you have an older or high-end instrument, check the manufacturer's advice before using any product.

Tuners, Bridge and Soundhole

Tuning machines collect dust and sweat. A dry cloth or a soft brush is enough for most. Avoid spraying cleaners into the gears.

The bridge and saddle area gathers dust around the pins. Wipe it when the strings are off. Dust inside the body is normal and rarely a problem, but a soft brush or a gentle puff of air through the soundhole removes the loose layer. Never put anything wet inside the soundhole.

What to Keep Away From Your Guitar

Household products that are fine for furniture can damage a guitar finish or the bare wood. When in doubt, use a dry cloth, which is always safe.

  • Household furniture sprays, especially those with silicone
  • Glass and multi-surface cleaners
  • Alcohol-based cleaners on the finish
  • Soaking wet cloths, or any liquid near the soundhole
  • Abrasive pads on the body
  • Large amounts of fingerboard oil

A Simple Cleaning Routine

After every session, wipe the strings, neck and body. At every string change, clean the fingerboard and the bridge area. Once or twice a year, condition an unfinished fingerboard lightly and give a gloss finish a gentle polish.

Cleaning also gives you a regular look at the guitar. Lifting bridges, cracks near the soundhole and fret wear are much easier to catch while you are wiping the instrument than while you are playing it. If you spot something, our guide to common acoustic guitar repairs helps you judge what needs a technician. Humidity is the other half of guitar care, covered in protecting your guitar from humidity.

Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

A soft microfibre cloth handles most cleaning. For a gloss finish, use a polish made for guitars sprayed onto the cloth. Avoid household furniture sprays and glass cleaners.
Clean it when the strings are off, using a dry or slightly damp cloth and a soft brush for grime near the frets. Condition it lightly with a guitar fingerboard oil once or twice a year and wipe off the excess.
Generally no. Polishing can create shiny spots on a satin finish. A dry or slightly damp microfibre cloth is the safer choice.
Wipe the strings and body after every session. Clean the fingerboard at string changes, and condition or polish once or twice a year.
Usually not. Maple fingerboards typically have a finish and should be cleaned like the body rather than oiled.
Shmulik Dorinbaum
Written by

Shmulik Dorinbaum

Working Musician · 20+ Years Songwriting & Performing · Hebrew Recording Artist

A 44-year-old working musician and father of two from Israel, writing and recording for over twenty years across country, folk and rock. Strum Avenue is where two decades of buying, breaking, setting up and arguing about acoustic guitars gets written down.

Raised on Chris Cornell, Brandon Boyd (Incubus), Eddie Vedder.

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