Buying Guide

Should You Buy a Cutaway Acoustic Guitar? (Honest Verdict)

Acoustic guitar article visual

What a Cutaway Actually Does to a Guitar

A cutaway on an acoustic guitar is a carved or laminated notch in the upper bout that provides access to the 14th through 19th frets. The two standard shapes are the Venetian (rounded curve) and the Florentine (sharp point), both introduced on acoustic archtops in the 1930s before migrating to flat-tops in the 1950s. The design trade-off is simple: removing 2-3% of the internal air volume and 3-5% of the top's vibrating surface area, in exchange for 4-6 additional frets of playable range. The Taylor 814ce, Martin D-28 Custom Venetian, and Gibson J-45 Rosewood Cutaway all use the Venetian shape; Florentine cutaways are more common on jazz archtops and some Collings models.

The measurable tonal cost of a cutaway is smaller than most players believe. On the same Taylor 814 model body, published comparisons measure approximately a 1-1.5 dB reduction in the 120-180 Hz range on the cutaway version. That is a detectable difference but not a dramatic one, smaller than swapping string brands. What you lose in low-frequency resonance, you gain in upper-fret accessibility, and for any player who actually uses those frets, the trade is usually worth making.

Who Actually Needs a Cutaway

The honest answer is that most acoustic players never play above the 12th fret, and for them a cutaway is cosmetic at best and a tonal downgrade at worst. But three specific groups genuinely benefit from the upper-fret access: solo fingerstyle players whose arrangements use harmonic material above the 14th fret (think Tommy Emmanuel, Andy McKee, Don Ross), jazz and fusion players working through the upper reaches of the fretboard, and gigging singer-songwriters who occasionally need to hit a high lead passage without awkward hand positioning.

If you are a beginner or intermediate player working on folk, bluegrass, country, or singer-songwriter material, you probably do not need a cutaway. Play your current acoustic for 30 minutes and count how many times your left hand moves above the 12th fret. If the answer is zero (which it is for about 80% of acoustic players), a non-cutaway instrument will give you marginally more bass response at the same price. If the answer is more than two or three times, a cutaway is worth considering.

If you are undecided between cutaway and non-cutaway versions of the same guitar, try both in the same session and play the same chord progression on each. The tonal difference is small enough that you may not hear it in a noisy shop. The ergonomic difference for upper-fret access is obvious within 30 seconds.

Specific Models Where Cutaways Matter

The Taylor 814ce is the cleanest case for a cutaway on an acoustic. Taylor designed the 800-series around the Venetian cutaway shape: the bracing, top voicing, and body geometry all account for the notch. Side-by-side comparisons of a non-cutaway 814 and the standard cutaway version consistently find the bass difference almost imperceptible, while the upper-fret access is a significant ergonomic win. Taylor is also one of the few manufacturers whose pickup system (Expression System 2) is designed for the cutaway body, which matters if you gig amplified.

At the other end of the spectrum, a Martin D-28 Custom Venetian feels like a compromise. The D-28 body was designed without a cutaway, and adding one to a dreadnought that already depends on maximum top vibration for its signature bass response costs roughly 2 dB of low-end energy in published comparisons. For a flatpicker or bluegrass player, that is a meaningful loss. Martin offers the OM-28 Cutaway as an alternative for fingerstyle players who need upper-fret access without sacrificing the guitar's core voicing. It is the better choice if you must have a cutaway Martin.

A Brief History of the Cutaway

The cutaway originated on archtop jazz guitars in the mid-1930s. Gibson's L-5 Premier (1939) and L-7C (1948) were among the first to feature the Venetian cutaway, designed specifically to give jazz players access to the upper frets on their single-line solo passages. The Florentine cutaway followed on the L-5 Florentine around 1959, though it never became as popular on flat-tops because the sharp point requires more complex joinery.

Flat-top cutaways lagged behind archtops by nearly two decades. Gibson introduced the J-160E Cutaway in 1969, and Martin added cutaway versions of the D-28 and HD-28 only in the 1990s after significant customer demand from country and singer-songwriter players. Taylor, founded in 1974, designed cutaways into their lineup from the beginning, which is why Taylor cutaways tend to feel more natural and integrated than retrofitted cutaways on traditional brands.

How to Decide

Here is the decision framework that settles it. Answer three questions honestly. First: do you play above the 12th fret in the music you actually play, not the music you imagine playing? If yes, a cutaway is worth considering. Second: are you gigging amplified with a pickup system, and will the ergonomic benefit of cutaway access show up on stage? If yes, the trade-off is easier because amplified tone is already being processed by a preamp and EQ. Third: are you buying a flatpicking or bluegrass-focused dreadnought where bass response is the core reason to own the instrument? If yes, skip the cutaway: the tonal cost is not worth the rare upper-fret access.

For most buyers at the $1,000-$2,500 price point, the Taylor 814ce, Taylor 814ce-N, Martin OM-28 Venetian Cutaway, and Guild OM-260CE Deluxe are the four most defensible cutaway choices on the current market. Each one was designed with the cutaway as part of the original voicing, not as an afterthought, and each offers upper-fret access without the tonal compromises that plague some retrofitted models. Below $800, the Fender PM-1E and Taylor 114ce are honest cutaway options, though neither matches the tonal development potential of their non-cutaway siblings.

Cutaways with built-in pickup systems (anything marked 'ce' on Taylor, 'E' on Martin, or 'EC' on Seagull) are ergonomically and tonally consistent because the body was designed for amplification. Standalone cutaway acoustics without pickups are the worst of both worlds: you lose unamplified resonance and gain nothing from the amplified side. If you want a cutaway, buy the version with electronics.
Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

Yes, but less than most players expect. Removing 2-3% of internal air volume reduces low-frequency response by roughly 1-2 dB in the 120-180 Hz range on a typical dreadnought or OM. That is a detectable difference but smaller than changing string brands or swapping tonewoods. On guitars designed with cutaways from the start (Taylor 800 series), the difference is often imperceptible.
Cutaways provide access to the 14th through 19th frets, which is essential for certain fingerstyle arrangements, jazz chord work, and any lead playing that requires upper-register notes. For singer-songwriters and bluegrass players who stay below the 12th fret, a cutaway is cosmetic. For Tommy Emmanuel-style fingerstyle or jazz rhythm work, it is structurally necessary.
Venetian (rounded) cutaways are more common on flat-tops and slightly stronger structurally. Florentine (pointed) cutaways are traditional on jazz archtops and provide a slightly more dramatic visual profile. Tonally, the difference is negligible. The choice is primarily aesthetic.
Usually by $100-300, because the cutaway requires additional bracing and more complex assembly. On the Taylor 814ce, the cutaway is standard and there is no price penalty. On Martin dreadnoughts, a custom Venetian cutaway typically adds $200-400 to the list price.
Not particularly. Beginners rarely play above the 5th fret for the first year, and a cutaway is an unnecessary expense for someone still learning open chords. Spend the money on a better top wood or a proper setup instead. If you develop into a lead player or fingerstylist later, you can upgrade to a cutaway model then.
Technically yes, but practically no. Retrofitting a cutaway requires removing the top, resculpting the upper bout, re-bracing, and refinishing, a $1,500-3,000 job on a guitar that will lose most of its value afterward. It is never cost-effective. If you want a cutaway, buy one that came with it from the factory.
Shmulik Dorinbaum
Written by

Shmulik Dorinbaum

Working Musician · 20+ Years Songwriting & Performing · Hebrew Recording Artist

A 44-year-old working musician and father of two from Israel, writing and recording for over twenty years across country, folk and rock. Strum Avenue is where two decades of buying, breaking, setting up and arguing about acoustic guitars gets written down.

Raised on Chris Cornell, Brandon Boyd (Incubus), Eddie Vedder.

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